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Friday, February 20, 2015

Book Review: Bob's Red Mill Everyday Gluten-Free Cookbook

As you might've guessed, I don't have a problem with gluten, but I know people who do. At some point "gluten free" became a diet trend, with some people unnecessarily avoiding gluten, but there are certainly people who legitimately need to avoid gluten in their diets.
So I was curious to take a look at Bob's Red Mill Everyday Gluten-Free Cookbook, from Robert Rose Publishing. While the title is a bit cumbersome, the name itself gave me some confidence, as Bob's Red Mill is a brand I've come to trust in my own baking, especially for typically hard-to-find grains. 
Logically enough, the book pretty much presumes that the reader wants to pursue a gluten-free diet, or at least to cut back on gluten. Other than a brief mention in the preface about how "[m]ore people than ever before are seeking ways to cut back on gluten or completely eliminate it from their diet," there's scant mention of whether or why you should do so.
But this is a cookbook, after all, not a treatise on the role of gluten in one's diet. And as a cookbook, it succeeds admirably.
The book starts with a primer on various gluten-free grains, such as amaranth, millet and quinoa, with some basic information on their origins, uses and cooking methods. That's followed by a rundown of items that should be in every gluten-free pantry (which for the most part aren't much different from what should be in any other pantry), and from there it's on to the recipes.
These are arranged thematically: "Breakfasts," "Soups, Stews and Chilis," "Salads and Sides," "Meatless Main Dishes," "Seafood, Poultry and Meat Main Dishes," "Breads, Muffins and Snacks," and "Desserts." The recipes are clearly laid out, and mostly pretty simple, with an average of three or four steps.
Surprisingly, there wasn't much here in the way of pizza, other than a "pizza quinoa casserole," which sounded good, if not particularly pizzalike.  I ended up more interested in some of the regional and ethnic dishes, like the Chinese-inspired pork, bok choy and millet hot pot, the Persian-spiced lentils and millet, and the Ethiopian injera (flatbread), which I've tried making before, rather unsuccessfully. It may be time to give it another go.
Not all of the 281 recipes are illustrated, but many are, with beautiful, full-page, full-color photographs. The index is comprehensive, which is helpful if you can't remember whether a particular dish was classified as a "side" or a "snack." And despite the name, the book is not one big ad for Bob's Red Mill; you won't find recipes calling for brand-specific products, and pretty much everything listed can be obtained at a good supermarket or natural foods store.
Health issues aside, I've enjoyed adding new grains to my diet and my cooking. Some of them are quite tasty, and as far as I'm concerned, the more variety the better. So while I don't see myself cutting back much on gluten, I'm looking forward to trying a number of the recipes in this book. But if you or a loved one are serious about avoiding gluten, for whatever reason, this volume would make a worthy addition to a kitchen bookshelf.

Alloco's, Long Pond Road

New pizzerias continue to spring up, and one of the most recent is Alloco's Restaurant and Catering, on Long Pond Road, in the former site of Martino's (that former Martino's, by the way, was NOT associated with the Martino's in Webster, which is still in business, and as far as I know, is still going strong).
I recently picked up a large pizza from Alloco's for a family dinner. To satisfy the disparate tastes of my wife and daughter, I got half ham, half sweet peppers.
I got the pizza home quickly, and it looked good on top. I then checked the bottom, which was a uniform dark brown, with screen marks and some visible flour.
That didn't look so promising. Based on my past experience with pizza displaying similar characteristics, I was expecting a firm but lifeless crust, more pliable than crisp, with an aroma of cooking oil.
So I was pleasantly surprised to find that the crust was quite good: crisp on the outside, with a toasty aroma. The surface of the underside cracked a little when the slices were folded, which was also a good sign, as I generally prefer a pizza that's both crackly and chewy. Good pizza is all about balance, and that's one aspect of it.
I mentioned seeing some flour on the bottom. It was detectable to the touch, but not excessive, and I didn't taste any raw flour. The edge was shaped into an attractive cornicione, with a series of indentations along the edge. The thin-to-medium crust had a good, bready flavor and a nicely chewy texture. And it was well complemented by the toppings.
I was struck by the brownish color of the peppers, almost as if they'd been tossed with balsamic vinegar, but I didn't get any such flavor. I think they had just caramelized a little along the edges, perhaps when they were par-cooked before being applied to the pie. Though their appearance was unusual, the peppers tasted good, neither raw nor overly cooked.
Now to the ham side. I like ham, though I don't rank it among my favorite pizza toppings. But this was good ham, thin-sliced and more meaty than fatty, and not too salty.
The cheese was somewhat obscured by the other toppings (which is why, for evaluation purposes, I often order plain cheese slices), but seemed to be all mozzarella; I didn't pick up any tanginess or other flavors that would indicate otherwise. The cheese was not abundant, but I generally don't like cheese-heavy pizza, and it was added in good proportion to the other components. The underlying sauce was basic, tomatoey, with a medium consistency. As you can see, it was applied quite close to the edge of the pie.
Alloco's offers some 30 toppings, nothing terribly exotic, but just about any standard topping you can think of. They also have 17 specialty pizzas, which you can see on the menu, which I've included here. Besides pizza, Alloco's does calzones, subs, wings, pasta, seafood, quesadillas, and a variety of grilled and fried items.
As I said, I was pretty pleased with this pizza. Overall, it was well balanced, with straightforward ingredients and a decent crust. It was difficult to pigeonhole - kind of a cross between a traditional Rochester pizza and a New York style pizza - but it was good. I'd go back, and I think I will, at some point, so I'll give it a B.

Alloco's Restaurant & Catering, 1742 Long Pond Rd.

(585) 426-TOGO (8646)

Mon. - Thu. 8 a.m. - 11 p.m., Fri. 8 a.m. - 1 a.m, Sat. 10 am.m - 1 a.m, Sun. 11 a.m, - 10 p.m.

Thursday, February 12, 2015

On Pizza, Life, and Me

On February 12, 2009, I started writing and publishing The Rochester, NY Pizza Blog, with a stated mission to conduct "[a]n exploration of pizza in and around Rochester, NY, one pizzeria at a time." Some six years, and hundreds of blog posts later, I'm still at it.

My goal is, eventually, to try and report on every pizzeria in the Rochester region. Like one of those curves in geometry that gets closer and closer to a line but never touches it, I am nearing that goal, but I suspect that I'll never quite reach it.

When I tell people about my blog, one of the most common responses I get is "Why?" A reasonable enough question, although I'm never quite certain how to take it–does it indicate intrigued curiosity, or just a suspicion that I must be a little weird to pursue such a strange hobby? Maybe it's better not to know.

But it's a question for which I still don't have a good answer, or at least not a complete answer. And perhaps the most difficult aspect of the question is, why blog about pizza? Why focus on just one food, and why pizza in particular? So as I write this essay, I'm not only explaining myself, I'm searching for an answer to that question.

Part of it, I guess, has to do with my personality. I'm goal-oriented, sometimes to a fault, and trying every one of the pizzerias in our area (which, depending on how you define a pizzeria, number in the low hundreds) seemed like a reasonably attainable goal. I don't think I'd be doing this if I lived in New York City; I’d feel overwhelmed by the sheer number of pizzerias. And that's why I don't write about Rochester restaurants in general:  too many places, too open-ended a quest.

But still–why pizza? Why not something else?

It starts, I suppose, as with many things in life, in childhood. Food memories are often among our most vivid and long-lasting, and I have indelible memories of pizza, going back to a very early age. And I don't even come from an Italian family.

Friday nights–or was it Saturday?–we’d make homemade pizza. Pillsbury dough mix, Contadina sauce, squares of sliced Muenster cheese, and hand-sliced pepperoni, baked on a battered, blackened aluminum cookie sheet.  By any objective standard, it was not very good. If I bought it today, I'd probably give it a D. But at the time, I loved it.

And then there were the places we used to get pizza from, most of which exist now only in memory:  Chit Chat, Roxy's, Dixon's, Warner's. It's been decades, but I can remember what each of their pizzas looked, smelled, and tasted like, as if I'd eaten them yesterday. Again, they weren't all great, objectively, but they were distinctive, and I miss them for reasons that transcend their outward qualities.

I simply don't feel quite that way about any other food. Sure, I love lots of foods:  junk food, fast food, ethnic food, haute cuisine ... I like food. I couldn't live without it. But for me, no other food has quite the romance, or holds quite the fascination, that pizza does.

And so there remains that fundamental why.  In the end, a lot of it, I think, has to do not just with the pizza itself, but with the people who make it, and with whom I share it.

As I was writing this essay, I began thinking about the other foods that collectively comprise our cultural culinary currency, from chicken wings to barbeque to hamburgers and hot dogs, and about why, even though I love them all, I lack the passion for those foods that I feel for pizza. I could, I’m sure, write an entire other essay on that topic.

But my purpose here is not to put down any other foods, or even to argue that pizza is somehow intrinsically better than any other food. All I’ll say is that I consider pizza unique in its combination of cultural and personal significance. My personal associations with it aside, no other food that I can think of, in this country, combines such widespread popularity and commercial availability with so much history and such an emphasis on family and friends.

Over the past six years of writing The Rochester NY Pizza Blog, I've talked to the proprietors of several of what I consider to be Rochester's best pizzerias, and I can safely assert two generalities about them:  they have a passion for pizza, and they have a pizza history, usually a family history, that goes back a long way. Some are from Italy, where they learned their craft as an organic part of their early lives. Others are second- or third-generation Italian Americans who grew up eating pizza prepared by their immigrant parents or grandparents. And then there are those who have no direct family history, but nevertheless can trace their pizza careers back to some past-generation progenitors. One pizzeria owner I spoke with recently told me that he got into the business almost by happenstance, getting a job with a local pizzeria, but once he was in, he was in for good. "If you weren't a member of the family when you started," he said, "you'd be one before long."

It's no coincidence, then, that individual, independent pizzerias turn out such unique products. Their pizzas sometimes bear a resemblance to one another, as they may be descended from the same pizza forebear, but they are not clones of each other, any more than are you and your siblings or cousins.

That's all the more amazing considering the limited palette that pizzaioli have to work with, and the hundreds of pizzerias in our area. "Specialty" pizzas and exotic toppings aside, most pizzas comprise just a few basic elements:  dough, sauce, cheese, and typically one or two toppings, more often than not pepperoni. And yet within that minimalist framework, each pizzeria–the best ones, at least–manage to create something truly distinctive and memorable.

Which brings us to the subject of chains. I've been accused of having a prejudice against chain pizzerias. Up to a point, it's a fair criticism. On those relatively rare occasions when I review a chain pizza, I try to judge it on its merits, without any preconceptions. But no, in general I don't like chain pizza, for a couple of reasons.

By their very nature, chain restaurants, pizza or otherwise, are designed to foster uniformity. The pizza you get in Rochester should, in theory, be indistinguishable from the pizza you get from the same chain in Phoenix or Tallahassee.

That just doesn't sit right with me. Undeniably the concept has some merit, in a purely economic sense; there’s a reason, after all, why chains succeed.

But to me, one of the best qualities of good pizza is that it's memorable, and there’s nothing memorable about cookie-cutter pizza. Thick or thin, red or white, each pizza can and should achieve its own perfection, according to its own measure.

I might feel differently about chain pizza if I found it to be very good. But it seems to me that there is in fact a perverse, inverse relationship between the size and success of a chain and the quality of its pizza. The bigger the chain, the worse the pizza. In general.

I suspect that has a lot to do with cost, predictability, and convenience.  All too many people would rather get a mediocre, but reliable pizza for ten bucks, delivered in under thirty minutes, than take a chance by spending fifteen or more dollars on a pizza from a local independent shop, that might be anywhere from great to awful, and that might or might not show up in under an hour.

That's a challenge for independent pizzerias, to be sure, and frankly not all of them meet it. Some of the worst pizza I've had has come from independent shops. But unless I've had significant problems with a place in the past, I'll take that chance every time. More often than not, the pizza is better than what one would get from a chain, and every now and then it's outstanding. I've never hit the jackpot that way with chain pizza.

And so it is that over the years, I’ve become visually attuned to finding pizza shops, everywhere I go. It’s easy enough to spot the chains’ large, iconic signs, but the smaller places are tougher. Over time, though, I’ve become remarkably adept at picking out from the visual landscape a double "Z," especially in red neon.

In fact, while as far as my blogging activities are concerned, nothing beats eating good pizza, a close second, for sheer enjoyment, is simply finding new places. I get genuinely excited–OK, so maybe I am a little weird–when I run across a pizzeria that I had never known existed. Not only does that carry with it the possibility of discovering, and letting my readers know about, some great pizza, but also the promise of unearthing another story. And that brings us back to the human side of the equation.

A lot of the pizza that I consume, for the blog especially, I eat alone. Crisscrossing the local pizza landscape, to keep the blog going on something like a regular basis, is an often solitary activity. But while pizza certainly lends itself to solo eating–witness the classic one-handed fold perfected by New Yorkers, as they walk down the street while chowing down on a slice–it’s also one of our most communal foods.

Think about it:  when a group of people (at work, say, or having gathered together to watch a game on TV) decide to order food, what's the first thing that comes to mind? Sure, wings or some other sides may be in the mix, but pizza is the default option.

And when it arrives, how is it eaten? Order sandwiches from a deli, and each person gets his or her separate bag, the contents of which are to be eaten individually ("Let’s see, you had the roast beef, you've got the tuna, I have the turkey").

Not so pizza. One or more pies or sheets are shared. You reach in, you take a slice, and your companions do the same.

Essentially, you are breaking bread–a ritual symbol of community that goes back thousands of years. In some parts of the world, it’s still a feature of everyday life.

In our own atomistic society, where we’ve got hundreds of online “friends” that we’ve never physically met, pizza is something that still brings us together, in a direct way that, I would submit, taps into something deeply ingrained within us. Something that modern technology hasn’t yet erased from our neural impulses. Something that, deep down, we know is real, and valuable, and good, and uniquely human.

Look, I don’t mean to go all philosophical here. When all is said and done, I know that pizza is just food. You eat it, hopefully you enjoy it, and a few hours later you'll be hungry again.

But as I said at the outset, I’m searching for an answer to the question, of all the things to write about, why did I choose pizza? And I guess that for me, eating pizza involves more than just eating food. Pizza has created lasting, powerful memories, of people, places, and times:  my own memory, and the individual and collective memories of others, that they’ve shared with me. And that, more than just the food itself, is why I love, and write about, pizza.

Friday, February 6, 2015

Tavern 19, Hamlin

I don't make it out to Hamlin too often, especially in winter, but I did so after learning about Tavern 19. The site has housed many restaurants over the years, but Tavern 19 houses a wood-fired oven, and specializes in pizza.
Wood-fired pizza has become almost commonplace around Rochester in the past few years, but I was intrigued by the story on their website, which details the owners' love affair with pizza. The story dates back to their college days in New York City, up to their opening of Tavern 19, which features a state-of-the-art, revolving-deck wood-fired oven that reaches temperatures up to 900 degrees.
So to celebrate my wife's birthday, she and I had dinner at Tavern 19 on a recent Saturday night. My wife wasn't in the mood for pizza (what?!), so she got a pasta dish, while I ordered an "All Seasons" pizza, topped with plum-tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella, sun-dried tomatoes, artichoke hearts, Seville olives, and prosciutto di Parma. I asked them to skip the portabella mushrooms called for on the menu, as mushrooms are one of my few no-gos, foodwise.
My pie came out with a nicely done crust: a little blistering along the edge, and an underside that was brown, with a bit of char-spotting. It was crisp on the outside, but not crackly, and the slices were pliable, with a light dusting of what I think was semolina on the bottom. The edge was puffy, and the center was well balanced between outer crispness and interior chewiness.
The crust was a little more brown than I would've expected from a 900-degree oven. I'm used to seeing pizzas from high-temperature, wood-fired ovens with a bottom that's more pale overall, but with a good deal of black "leopard spotting." This crust had some char spots, but was more evenly done. Perhaps that had something to do with the revolving deck, which may result in a more gradual cooking process. But I had no complaints, as the crust had a good texture and an aroma of freshly baked bread, with some toasty accents.
My choice of the All Seasons pizza proved to be a wise one. The toppings complemented each other well, the sauce had a rich tomatoey flavor, and the cheese was melted but not overdone or rubbery.
I mentioned Tavern 19's background story above, and it's laid out in full on their website, but in short, Craig and co-owner John went to school in NYC, where they fell in love with NY pizza. They attended a master class administered by Goodfella's, which has won numerous awards over the years for their wood-fired pizza. Craig and John came back to this area and found a suitable spot to pursue their pizza dream in Hamlin, in a great old building on Route 19, a/k/a Lake Road.
As I mentioned, they installed a revolving-deck oven, unique to this area. The deck is mostly useful when they're baking several pies at once. Instead of having to move pies (or other wood-fired dishes) from one spot to another, the pizzaiolo simply has to rotate them as they pass by the open flame. But that doesn't take the artistry out of the equation; the pizzaiolo still needs to pay constant attention to the pizzas, especially given the high temperature of the oven.
Tavern 19 has an extensive pizza menu, but they do a lot more than just pizza. My wife enjoyed her penne pasta with basil pesto, which was a special that night, and I'd like to go back and either try a different pizza (probably the pizza alla vodka, which they seem especially proud of) or a non-pizza dish altogether. You can see the full menu here. Several selections look tempting to me, including the clam soup, steak au poivre, and the burgers; after pizza, burgers are pretty high on my list of favorite foods. I do think, though, that I'd not order the three-pound "killer burger," though you may want to take the challenge; if you finish it singlehandedly, it's on the house.
At this point, it's an open question where wood-fired pizza is going, locally. Is it a trend that's going to overexpand, and burn itself out? Or are we going to see wood-fired pizza become commonplace and scattered around the landscape, even in small towns?
I don't know the answer, but I suspect that at some point, just advertising "wood fired" isn't going to be enough to sustain a restaurant. In the end, it's the product that matters. Turning out a good pizza, wood-fired or otherwise, requires time and commitment, and the owners of Tavern 19 have put in both. It shows in the pizza. I live quite some distance from Hamlin, but I'd drive here again, for the pizza, so it gets an A from me.

Tavern 19, 1549 Lake Road, Hamlin
(585) 636-4104

Mon. - Sat. 4 p.m. - 2 a.m., Sun. noon. - 2 a..m. (the closing time may be bar hours, not food hours - call ahead if you need to know for sure).

Tuesday, February 3, 2015

Luca Brothers, East Rochester

Number 108 Main Street in East Rochester has been home to a pizzeria for some years. In June 2011, I did a post on Chris's Village Way, which I thought was good enough to rate a B, but it's since closed.
In its place comes Luca Brothers.which opened in 2014. I've been there a couple of times now.
I've wanted to like this place, given their stated commitment to authentic Italian pizza, by way of New York, but I haven't been that happy with what I've gotten.
I've had slices at Luca Brothers three times now, and each time I've gotten an underdone slice with a few browned areas underneath. The crust seemed underbaked and doughy. This does not fit with what I think of as New York style or authentic Neapolitan style pizza, which is what they claim to strive for.
In Luca's favor, the slices I've had have been well balanced, and the toppings tasted good. The sauce was nice and tomatoey with a touch of salt, the cheese was nicely melted, and the pepperoni was crisp. But the first thing that hits your tastebuds is the crust, and it just wasn't good.
First time around, I didn't get my slice rewarmed, and I thought maybe that was the problem. Pale and soft crust. Second and third times, I got it rewarmed, but then it just came out brittle, dry and flavorless. It's a shame, because as I said, the toppings were not too bad at all. Just not enough to save the poor crust.
Maybe a full pie, later in the day, would be much better. Maybe at lunchtime, the oven just wasn't hot enough. But I can only rate what I got, and if they chose to put out these slices at lunchtime, well, that's their decision. I hope they start putting out better pizza than this, but I have to give these a D.

Luca Brothers, 108 Main St., East Rochester
(585) 310-7201

Mon. - Thu. 11 a.m. - 10 p.m., Fri. & Sat. 11 a.m. - midnight, Sun. noon - 9 p.m.