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Tuesday, June 8, 2010

Cobbs Hill Revisited

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Last September, I did a post about a couple of slices that I got at Cobbs Hill Pizza on Park Avenue. I liked it, mostly, but found it exceptionally greasy, and gave it a B-. Well, since then, some comments that I got and other reviews that I've seen left me thinking that I may have just gone there on a bad day, as my experience seemed to be atypical. So I returned recently to get a full pie, half cheese, half pepperoni.
OK, first things first:  it was not greasy. Yeah, there were some grease spots on the cardboard underneath, but nothing remarkable. More to the point, the crust itself was not greasy, the way my slices had been.
The crust was in the thin-to-medium range, with a firm, though not crisp underside, and a nice, bready interior. It was a fairly uniform golden brown in hue. The edge was a bit soft, and the slices were easily foldable.
While the bottom photo seems to show some oven soot on the underside of the slice, that was actually a surprise to me when I noticed it because I don't recall seeing any soot while I was eating it, and I always inspect the underside of my pizza. So the soot may have just been on that one slice, and I'm pretty sure it wasn't on most of the pizza.
The sauce and cheese were applied in good balance with the crust. The former had a slightly sweet tomatoey flavor, and the lightly browned cheese seemed to be basic mozzarella, spread uniformly across the pizza surface in a thin blanket. All the components were well integrated and in good balance with each other.
Since this is a revisit, I won't repeat all the other details about Cobbs Hill, as nothing seems to have changed there since my prior visit. Except for the pizza, that is. I guess I just went there on a bad day last time, or maybe they have issues with consistency, but this pizza had nowhere near the grease factor that those two slices did back in September.
And all in all, it wasn't bad. I'd describe it as roughly New York style, but a bit thicker, and without the crisp, charred underside that you get on really good NY pizza. Maybe not quite up there with the best purveyors of the style in our area, but based on this pie, I'd say Cobbs Hill turns out some perfectly respectable, serviceable pizza. With the hope that this is more typical of what you can expect from Cobbs Hill, I'll give this one a B.
Cobbs Hill Pizza & Pasta, 630 Park Ave., 442-6730
Mon. - Sat. 11 a.m. - 10 p.m., Sun. 11:30 a.m. - 9 p.m.

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