Tackles on the Bay, Hilton

With warmer weather here at last, many of us will be spending more time on and near the water, whether it's one of the Finger Lakes, the canal, Lake Ontario, or your backyard pool.
Or perhaps Braddock Bay, in northwest Monroe County. The bay (presumably named after British general Edward Braddock, who was killed in the French and Indian War) has had some issues in recent years over low water levels, but maybe that'll change this year, and it's still a pleasant place to get on the water without the noise and crowds of places like Charlotte.
On a short, thinly populated stretch of Manitou Road in Hilton, on what's either an inlet of the bay or a creek feeding into the bay, lie three bar/restaurants, within less than half a mile of each other:  The Willow Inn, Docksiders, and Tackles on the Bay. Bring a designated driver or boat captain and you've got a mini pub crawl made to order.
But that's not what found me at Tackles the other day. No, I was drawn here for the food, because, as far as I know, Tackles is the only one of these establishments to offer pizza.
Pizzas at TOTB come in 10- and 16-inch sizes, for $4.99 and $7.99 respectively, including two free toppings. I didn't need a 16" pizza, but with over two and a half times more surface area at only 1.6 times the cost it seemed by far the better buy (I didn't do all that math at the time, but I mentally did a rough approximation; what can I say? I'm a geek, or a cheapskate, or both). So I got a large pizza, with green peppers and onions.
The medium thick crust was a fairly uniform golden brown underneath, and was faintly oily to the touch. It had some crispness, as dough will when it's been baked on an oiled pan. Think of the sides and bottom of a loaf of bread that's been baked in a bread pan and you'll have a pretty good idea of what this was like.
The crust did have some decent fresh-bread flavor, though not much "chew." The minute air bubbles inside didn't indicate a lot of gluten development, so while the flavor was pleasant enough, the texture didn't wow me. Frankly this could've been made using a premade crust, which wouldn't surprise me, as this isn't really a pizzeria as such, and it seems unlikely that they'd be making their own dough from scratch every day.  (Also, when you see just two sizes of pizza on a menu, I think that's some indication that they're probably using premade crusts.)
The crust had also very visibly been "docked," meaning perforated with tiny holes to keep it from puffing up in the oven. Again, I don't know if Tackles uses fresh dough or premade "shells," so I don't know if this was done here or if they came that way from the supplier.
The crust was topped with a very smooth tomato sauce. Its consistency reminded me of Ragu® sauce from a jar. I don't like my pizza sauce to be particularly chunky, but this was a little too pureed and canned-like for my taste. It had a slightly sweet flavor that was not bad.
The mozzarella was well melted and very stringy/stretchy. There was also a distinct aroma and flavor of what I think was Parmesan cheese. It was very noticeable, though not overpowering.
Atop the cheese were a few sprinkles of what appeared to be parsley flakes, which is something I've never seen on a pizza. I suppose it could've been oregano or dried basil, but it had the bright green color of parsley, and regardless of what it was, no flavor to speak of. The peppers and onions were thin sliced and sauteed to a pleasant softness, which I prefer to veggies that were added raw prior to baking. Fresh vegetables are fine and all, but peppers and onions develop what I consider to be better flavor and texture when they've been sauteed.
I also noticed that the toppings didn't adhere well to the crust. When I lifted up the cheese to examine the top of the crust, it came off quite easily, and the sauce was also very easy to swipe off. Again, that indicated to me that this was likely a parbaked crust to which toppings had been added just before the pizza was put in the oven. If a pizza's made with fresh dough, generally the sauce will soak into the crust a little (which is why you need to get it in the oven fairly quickly after applying the sauce, lest the crust get soggy or start to stick to the pizza peel), but not here. So I'm thinking the dough had already developed a bit of a skin or crust on top when the toppings were applied.
Tackles offers a full menu of bar food (burgers, wings, plates, etc.) and more substantial options, with a heavy emphasis on steaks, seafood, and Italian specialties. It's a very pleasant setting, right on the water, with an interior accented by light-colored wood throughout.
The pizza? Well, I've pointed out some flaws, but none were that serious. The biggest issue for me was that, like a lot of bar or restaurant pizzas, it seemed to have been made on a prebaked crust (if it was made from fresh dough, I apologize, but it didn't seem to be), and it had the shortcomings of such pizzas - not a great texture, and toppings that easily slid off the crust. But the flavor was good, it was somewhat crisp, and the cheese and peppers & onions were good too. This wasn't bad, but it wasn't better than average, so it rates a C.
Tackles on the Bay, 372 Manitou Rd., Hilton
392-3370
Mon. - Fri. 11 a.m. - 2 a.m., Sat. & Sun. noon - 2 a.m.

Pizza Shack #1, Spencerport

Nearly a year ago, I did a post on Pizza Shack #1 (sometimes spelled Pizza Shack I) in Spencerport. I thought it was OK, but not great, with a crust that was decent but quite pale underneath, and I gave it a C+.
That sparked a couple of responses insisting that I was way off base, and that Pizza Shack rates far better than a C+, so I vowed to go back.
It's taken nearly a year, but back I went last week. Instead of getting a couple of slices at lunchtime, as on my previous visit, this time I picked up a large pie for dinner. I got peppers and onions on half.
The crust was on the thick side of medium, and the square-cut pieces were firm along the outside, though the pie was thinner, and the slices floppier, toward the center. The outer pieces averaged about 5/8 inch thick.
The edge was thick and crunchy, and the underside was well browned and dry to the touch. The crust throughout was pleasantly bready, and the dough appeared to have risen nicely, giving it a good, chewy texture and no oversize bubbles anywhere.
The crust was topped with a healthy dose of sauce, which had a salty/acidic, tomatoey flavor that was lightly seasoned with herbs. The mozzarella was added in good proportion to the sauce, and as is typical of pizzas with additional toppings on half, the cheese-only side was somewhat browned. 
This was quite a change from the slices I got here last December, and quite an improvement, in my opinion. I suspect that the 12-month span in between was not as much of a factor as the 5- or 6-hour difference in the time of day when I ordered these. Last time, maybe the ovens weren't quite hot enough, or maybe the pizzaiolo was in a hurry to get the pie out of the oven to accommodate lunchtime customers, but the pie I got this time around was better baked, which made a lot of difference. The texture was better, the flavor was better, and the other components seemed to meld together better.
This was also a good example of what I think of as Rochester style pizza. A bit thick, plenty of sauce and cheese, but well balanced, with a bready crust that's typically given a square cut. It didn't stand head and shoulders above the crowd, perhaps, but it was a very solid representative of the local style, and I'll give it a B+.
Pizza Shack #1, 5008 Ridge Road West, Spencerport, 14559. 352-5005
Sun. - Thu. 10:30 a.m. - 11:30 p.m., Fri. & Sat. 10:30 a.m. - 1 a.m.
Delivery to Spencerport, Hilton, and West Greece.

Caraglio's, Hilton

I've previously written about Caraglio's on Dewey Avenue in Greece. I thought that the slice I had there wasn't bad, but could've been much better, and gave it a C+.
There are two other Caraglio's, one on North Greece Road and one in Hilton, at the former site of a Piatza's pizza shop. I stopped at the latter, and again, I got a pepperoni slice.
One other note about the location - the Hilton Caraglio's is just around the corner from a Carbone's location. I almost have to wonder if there's a law that says that Caraglio’s and Carbone’s have to locate near each other? There's a Carbone's across the street from the Dewey Ave. Caraglio's, and another Carbone's on - guess what? - North Greece Road.
While this shared some characteristics with the slice I got on Dewey Ave., it also had some things in common with the former occupant of this site, Piatza's. It was another huge, mega, jumbo, whatever you want to call it slice, quite thin, and, not surprisingly, quite floppy. The bottom was lightly singed, with distinct screen marks, and a slightly doughy aroma exuded from the crust.
The surface of the slice was rather greasy, more than I would have expected from the relatively modest amount of cheese and pepperoni. I was able to saturate most of a napkin soaking up the orangey oil.
The moderately applied sauce had a straightforward, middle-of-the-road flavor; it was neither particularly salty, sweet, nor herbal. But it had pretty good flavor and blended well with the slightly tangy, nicely melted mozzarella. Topping it all off were small slices of cup-and-char pepperoni, which were crisp but few in number; I'm of the opinion that on a pepperoni pizza, every bite should include some pepperoni, but here there were some relatively large, pepperoniless areas.
Eventually I worked my way to the outer edge, which would only be worth finishing if you're still hungry after consuming the rest of the slice. Like the rest of the crust, it was rather bland, with what I would describe as a dull flavor. But at least it was dry and a little crisp; the underside was a little wet in spots, making it even softer than it otherwise would have been. I don't think it was oil, but rather water that I assume had condensed from the slice itself. I removed the slice from its sleeve within a minute or two after getting it, so my only guess is that the pizza was put onto a tray right after coming out of the oven, and that some steam from the bottom condensed underneath. It certainly wasn't what this already floppy slice needed, and the soft, somewhat undercooked crust really couldn't hold up even to the moderate amount of toppings on this slice.
, edge not bad, kind of chewy but dull flavor
decent flavor but bad texture, wet and soft, undercooked crust couldn’t hold up to even moderate toppings
Caraglio's menu is available on their website, so I won't go into detail describing it. Perhaps most noteworthy is the "Big Tony," which measures a full 28 inches in diameter. (I assume this slice was taken from a Big Tony.)
As with the slice I got on Dewey Ave., I was disappointed with this pizza, yet there's still something about it that I liked. Maybe there's just something inherently good, or satisfying, or enjoyable, about a big, floppy, slice of pizza. But the crust just brought this one down. A better, crisper crust would probably vault this pizza up a full grade or more, but I'm giving this one a C-.
Caraglios Pizza, 7 Main St., Hilton, 392-9000
Sun. - Thu. 11 a.m. - 9 p.m., Fri. & Sat. 11 a.m. - 10 p.m.

Carbone's, Hilton

In May 2009, I did a post on Carbone's on Dewey Avenue. I gave it a C+ for flavorfull toppings but a crust that was a little gummy. That relatively poor review prompted one loyal Carbone's customer to compare me to a Holocaust denier, so while it's taken some time, I have made it back, this time to the Carbone's in Hilton.
I got a single pepperoni slice, which was very fresh out of the oven. It seemed a little bigger than the slices I got last year at Dewey.
The medium-thick crust on this slice had a browned underside, with no screen marks. It was a bit greasy, with an oily sheen, a soft texture, and a slight aroma of cooking oil. Fortunately, the interior of the crust was better than the outside, with some bready chewiness.
The toppings also weren't bad. The cup-and-char pepperoni was nice and crisp, and the browned cheese was melted but not burnt. The only reason it looks so sloppy in the photograph is that the pizza was so hot, having just emerged from the oven.
The sauce had a distinct, though not overpowering flavor of herbs - oregano and basil among them, I think - and was moderately applied, in good balance with the rest of the components.
Carbone's has a relatively modest pizza menu, with nine toppings, just one specialty pizza (a white pizza with fresh garlic, olive oil, Romano and "spices"), and a "double dough" option for those who like it thick. They also do hot and cold subs, wings, chicken fingers, french fries and mozzarella sticks.
At the risk of being subjected to more unfavorable historical or cultural comparisons, I can't really give this pizza high marks. The flavor was OK and all, but that crust was too soft and too greasy for me. I'd call this an average slice of pizza for the Rochester area, so I'll give it an average grade, a C.
Carbone’s Pizzeria, 144 South Ave., Hilton 392-1111
Mon. - Thu. 3:00 p.m. - 9:00 p.m., Fri. & Sat. 11:00 a.m. - 10:00 p.m., Sun. noon - 9:00 p.m.

Pettinari's, Hilton

Another day, another gas station/
convenience store, another slice of pizza.
Today finds us in Hilton, at Pettinari's, at the corner of Roosevelt Highway and Clarkson Parma Town Line Road. (Roosevelt Highway, a/k/a Route 18, is not much of a highway, by the way, just an ordinary looking two-lane road. But I digress.)
Pettinari's full name is Pettinari's Deli & Pizza, and it has a full pizza menu, thus qualifying it as a full-fledged pizzeria, not just a convenience store that pops a frozen pie in the microwave every morning and leaves it on the warming rack all day. So I made the trek there for a slice.
My pepperoni slice was screen baked, and nearly charred in spots, but mostly a medium shade of "golden" brown. It was rather thin, and foldable, though the crust cracked a bit when I folded it.
The exterior of the crust had a slightly oily feel on the fingertips, and I detected a faint aroma of cooking oil as well. That's a definite negative for me, as I like my pizza crust to smell like freshly baked bread or toast, not like french fries.
The dough was nicely risen though, and had some internal breadiness, especially along the outer edge.
(Digression #2: I suppose "outer edge" is a redunancy; aren't all edges "outer"? But you know what I mean. The edge of the pie, not the edges where it was sliced.)
Besides cooking oil, the other prominent aroma here was of garlic - garlic powder, if I'm not mistaken. Flavorwise, the sauce was herbal and garlicky. It was moderately applied, and topped with a thin but uniform layer of congealed mozzarella. Overall, the components were pretty well balanced.
Pettinari's menu describes its standard pizza as "New York style." I wouldn't say that, but it's a common misconception around here that thin pizza is the same as New York style.
Be that as it may, Pettinari's also offers white pizza, "garlic" pizza, and "Abruzzese" pizza. Had I read over the menu while I was there, I would've asked more about the latter two, particularly the Abruzzese. I know Abruzzo is a region of Italy, but I have no idea what an Abruzzese pizza would be, nor does the menu offer any clues.
Pizza toppings are limited to eight choices (half of which are animal products - this is not a vegetarian-friendly menu), and they also do calzones. You can also get wings, hot and cold subs, a "chicken stir fry" with cheese, mushrooms, peppers, onions and broccoli, and a variety of grilled and fried items as well, including calamari and ribs.
Getting back to the pizza, well, I liked it, but with reservations. There were a few flaws, starting with the underside, with its oily aroma and feel. The garlic-powder flavor was also a bit too strong for me. I like - no, I love - garlic, but garlic powder can have a harsh flavor, and this was a little harsh for me.
On the plus side, the dough, which I consider the most important component of any pizza, was pretty good. It had a grainy flavor, and despite the competing flavors of cooking oil and garlic powder, I could taste the wheat in the crust. The components were also in good balance with each other, and the sauce had a pleasing herbal flavor. So adding it all up, I come out with a B- for this one.
Pettinari's Deli & Pizza, Inc.
918 Roosevelt Hwy, Hilton 392-4450
8:00 am - 9:00 pm daily