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Tuesday, December 29, 2009

JTB's, West Henrietta

OK, my notes on this one have been sitting around for a good month now, so it’s time I finished it. JTB’s has the distinction of being, as far as I know, the only pizzeria in Monroe County on the grounds of a golf course. It’s at the Riverton Golf Club, which is about a mile east of Scottsvillle on Rt. 253.
I got a large, half-pepperoni pizza from JTB’s back around Thanksgiving. The crust was on the thin side of medium, except for the thick outer lip. The underside was pretty pale, with a few darker areas here and there, and just a bit of oven soot. It was dotted with pin pricks, which I assume are meant to prevent the dough from bubbling up.
That probably wasn’t very likely to happen here in any event. The dough here didn’t seem to have risen very much, was rather dense, and had an overly chewy texture. It was not overly soft, but not especially crisp either, and the bottom had a slightly oil feel. The lip was well browned and crunchy.
There wasn’t much sauce on this pizza, but from what I could tell, it had a mild, slightly acidic flavor with some faint herbal overtones. The pizza was relatively heavy on the cheese - straight mozzarella, I think - and the wide and thin slices of pepperoni were nicely crisp along the edges.
JTB’s has the usual list of pizza toppings, and a handful of specialty pizzas. They also offer wings, hot and cold subs, calzones, wraps (“wrappers” on the menu), quesadillas, grilled items, fish fry, and “trasher” plates.
JTB’s is in the Riverton clubhouse, the interior of which is dominated by a large, wraparound bar. It’s an attractive space, with high ceilings and natural wood giving it a vaguely rustic feel. On my late November, late afternoon visit there were just a couple of people at the bar but I imagine you’ll find it more crowded during golf season. JTB’s also delivers for lunch and dinner, to a “limited delivery area.” (Are there any pizzerias that have unlimited delivery areas, by the way?)
This wasn’t bad pizza, but it was nothing special. The biggest problem was the crust. The dough simply hadn’t risen enough, and it lacked any bready qualities. And a pizza is only as good as its crust, so I’m going to have to put this one at a just-below average C-.
JTB’s Pizza ’n’ Grill, 514 Scottsville-Henrietta Rd. (Rt. 253), at Riverton Golf Club. 334-8433
Open year round for lunch and dinner.

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