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Wednesday, July 11, 2012

Perinton Pizza Emporium Revisited

Perinton Pizza on Urbanspoon
Back in December 2009, I did a post about Perinton Pizza (a/k/a Perinton Pizza Emporium), which I gave a D based on the oily, bland crust and overbaked cheese on the slice that I tried.
As with most of my negative reviews, that didn't sit well with everybody, and some two and a half years later a revisit was clearly overdue, so I went back recently for a small cheese pie. Since my prior experience with a slice wasn't so great, I thought a pie might be a better gauge of their pizza.
This pie had a dry bottom - that was certainly better than last time - but it was soft underneath, with no exterior "bite."
The crust was medium thick, with pretty good, bready flavor and a yeasty aroma, though on top, where the crust met the sauce and cheese, it was rather gummy, almost like wet dough. The crust was much better along the thick cornicione, which had a nice exterior crunch, giving it some of the characteristics of a good loaf of bread.
My pie was topped with a tomatoey sauce, of medium-thick consistency. Some herbs were noticeable on my palate. The mozzarella had pooled a bit toward the center of the pie (this will tend to be more noticeable on small pies), and was slightly browned and very stringy. All in all, the components of this pizza were well balanced.
This was, without question, an improvement over the slice I got last time. The primary improvement was the relative dryness of the underside, without all the oil that marred my previous slice. It also had pretty good flavor, nicely melted cheese, and a pleasantly crisp outer edge.
But I like a crisp crust, and aside from the cornicione (which will account for less of the crust on a larger pizza), this was not a great crust. It was OK, but still too soft underneath for my taste, and as I mentioned, the top side was a little gummy, probably from the moisture of the toppings seeping into it. So while this was not a bad pizza, on balance, I'd say it was no better, or worse, than average for this area, and I'll give it a C.
Perinton Pizza, 11 Courtney Drive, Fairport
Sun. 11 a.m. - 10 p.m., Mon. - Thu. 10 a.m. - 10 p.m., Fri. 10 a.m. - 11 p.m., Sat. 11 a.m. - 11 p.m.

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