Tuesday, September 22, 2009
In my previous post, I reported on my visit to Martino’s on Long Pond Road. Today we go to Martino’s in Webster. From what I was told there, the two Martino’s were originally related - I assume just two locations of the same pizzeria - but there is no longer any connection between them.
The Webster Martino’s slogan, “Where Life Is Worth Eating,” is a play on the Town of Webster’s faintly silly “Where Life Is Worth Living” motto. And on Mondays and Tuesdays, the eating won’t cost you much at Martino’s, as you can pick up a slice of cheese pizza for just one dollar.
A deal like that is pretty hard to beat, provided, of course, that the pizza’s any good. Fortunately, it is. Although not advertised as such, Martino’s slices are a decent approximation of New York style pizza.
My cheese slice (I also got a Coke, almost out of guilt over buying only a single one-dollar slice) had a thin-to-medium crust. It was easily foldable, but not flabby, and the underside was very well charred - perilously close to burnt, in fact - with a prominent toasty flavor. From its appearance, I was expecting it to be crunchier than it was, but it had a nice, crisp exterior and a pleasantly bready interior. The thin lip had some crunch to it, with a hint of oil; perhaps it received a light brushing of olive oil before going in the oven, although I know from baking bread that brushing the loaf with oil (or melted butter) will result in a softer crust, so I don't know.
The sauce was of a thin consistency and lightly applied. It wasn’t missing in action, as at some places, but was certainly more of a supporting than a lead player here. The cheese was more melted than browned, but wasn’t overly stringy or gooey, and had an mouth-pleasingly creamy texture.
While not identical to the Long Pond Martino’s, the Webster Martino’s menu is similar in several respects, evidencing their former kinship. There’s a modest, but adequate range of toppings and specialty pizzas, as well as stuffed pizza (which has a top layer of dough), calzones and strombolis. They also offer wings, appetizers, grilled items, hot and cold subs, wraps, focaccia sandwiches, wraps, salads, fried fish and seafood, and several pasta dinners. If you have a sweet tooth, there are a few selections in that category too, including brownies, cannolis and peanut butter pie. Everything's available for takeout, dining in, and delivery (free for orders of $10 or more).
All in all, I was pretty impressed with this pizza. Nice balance between crispness and pliability, charred exterior and bready interior, topped off with that creamy mozzarella. And for a buck a slice? Fuhgeddaboudit! This one gets an A- from me.
Martino’s Pizzeria, 160 West Main St., Webster. 872-4140
Mon. - Thu. 11 a.m. - 10 p.m., Fri. & Sat. 11 a.m. - 11 p.m., Sun. noon - 10 p.m.
Pizza Guy note: for an more recent review of Martino's, go here.