Thursday, May 20, 2010
Dew-E-Sub, Dewey Ave.
Another entrant in the cheap-pizza category is Dew-E-Sub on Dewey Avenue, just south of Lexington. Like Pizza Boy on North Clinton, what caught my eye here was the "Large Pizza $5" sign.
Pizza Boy's pizza actually wasn't bad. Surprisingly good, in fact, for the price. Would I fare as well at Dew-E?
Not quite. The pizza was a bit thicker than Pizza Boy, averaging about 5/8 inch thick, including the cheese (which wasn’t thick at all). It had a pale bottom dotted with pin pricks, and had been baked, it appeared, on some sort of screen. The bottom was dry, but not crisp.
The interior of the crust displayed some evidence of the dough having risen, on the bottom half of the crust at least, but it was a little gummy on top.
The sauce had a thick texture, and there were a lot of dried herbs visible, though the flavor was not especially herbal. It was mostly a basic tomato-sauce flavor. The cheese was applied pretty lightly, and was browned in many areas. It was not at all oily, and in fact was a little dry. I'm pretty sure this was not full-fat cheese.
The edge of the crust was thick, and had pleasantly bready interior, with some air holes visible, though no exterior toastiness. It, too, was a bit dry on the inside.
Dew-E has a pretty basic pizza menu, with ten available toppings, and no specialty pizzas. They also do wings, ribs, hot and cold subs, and assorted grilled and fried items, burgers, fish fry, and the like. You can also get fried or rotisserie-cooked chicken, oven-roasted pork, and rice & beans. Some grocery items and cold cuts to go are also available. It's pretty much a takeout and delivery place, although there were a few stools along the front window.
This was not great pizza, though for five dollars you could hardly complain. It was mostly doughy and bready, none too crisp underneath, a bit dry, and very light on the toppings. I guess the latter comes as no surprise, as the price of cheese has gone up in the past year or two, and they've got to make a profit somewhere.
So if we're talking $5 pizzas, I definitely preferred Pizza Boy's over Dew-E's, as it had a better crust and better balance among the components. I will say, though, that Dew-E's thicker crust made for a more filling pizza, so if your aim is to get the most bang for your buck, Dew-E's would be the way to go. Taking the price into consideration, I'll give it a C.
Dew-E Sub, 740 Dewey Ave. 254-7400
Mon. - Sat. 10 a.m. - 9 p.m. Closed Sunday.