Tuesday, September 25, 2012
Another Slice of Dragonfly
I was recently on Park Avenue around lunchtime so I stopped in for a slice at Dragonfly, which I hadn't been to, or reviewed, in quite some time. In fact, my most recent review was in December 2009.
I was disappointed that time, and I was hoping for better this time around.
Before I get to my slice, one change I noticed on the menu was that the range of specialty pies available had shrunk considerably. Dragonfly used to offer twenty-four specialty pizzas, from a hot "pepper pie" to a clams casino pizza, and even a fruit pie. But according to the menu I picked up on my visit, they're down to twelve, which is still a lot, but the aforementioned pies are no longer available. Maybe it got too expensive to keep the ingredients on hand for pies that weren't selling, so they pared down the men a bit. But you can still get a mac 'n' cheese pie, which you will certainly not find at most other pizzerias around here.
If you only want a slice, your options are much more limited, which is understandable, since you don't want to keep a sliced specialty pie sitting there for hours. Better to offer fewer but fresher slices.
I got a cheese slice. It was, well, OK.
The underside of the thin-to-medium crust was well browned, very well browned, in fact, but not crisp. It was also heavily screen-marked. On the plus side, there was some toasty flavor, but it was mixed with a faint aroma of oil. The underside wasn't greasy, except for along the cut edges where some oil had seeped down from above, having exuded from the cheese, I guess.
Topside, a layer of basic tomato sauce lay underneath a blanket of browned mozzarella. The flavor was fine, but nothing exceptional. The outer edge was golden brown on top and dark brown and crunchy underneath.
All in all, this was an OK slice of pizza, but nothing special. It was very much an average slice for around here, with standard, melted/browned mozzarella and red sauce atop a crust that was not greasy (good) but not crisp (not so good). And for as dark as it was underneath, that browning didn't translate into a great texture or a lot of flavor. So not bad, good enough for a quick pizza fix, but just average. It gets a C.
Dragonfly Tavern & Pizza Factory, 725 Park Ave.
Open 11:00 a.m. – 2:00 a.m. daily, limited menu after midnight.
$10.00 minimum on deliveries + $1.00 delivery charge