On a recent eastward trek along Rt. 104, I happened upon a pizzeria I'd never heard of, Skippy's, in Sodus.
If you haven't been out that way much, when you hear "Sodus" you may think of the cute little village on the water. That's Sodus Point. Sodus is a village that straddles 104, about two and a half miles inland. And it's a nice little place, too, even if it lacks the water views of its bayside neighbor.
Skippy's sits on West Main Street, right in the center of town. A bar and a Chinese restaurant, those other essentials of small town life, lie within a stone's throw away. If you're into food generally, El Rincon Mexicano, one of our area's best Mexican restaurants, is also nearby on Ridge Road, which is not the same as 104. Consult a map if you're unfamiliar with the area.
When I went into Skippy's, they had both regular and pan (Neapolitan and Sicilian) slices available, so I had to try one of each. The regular, pie-cut slice was on the thin to medium side. The underside was dotted with screen marks, and was firm but not crisp. It was well browned and had a faint aroma of oil mixed with that of toasted bread.
The slice was topped with a moderate layer of relatively thick tomato sauce, which had a marked though not excessively herbal flavor. The cheese was melted, not browned, but it had congealed a bit.
The pan, or Sicilian, slice was made from the same basic components, but offered a different overall experience due to its thicker crust and having risen and been baked in a pan.
Pan pizza is tricky. It can come out overly soft on the bottom, or crunchy but excessively oily. The worst pan pizzas are oily and soft, like a pancake.
Rarely if ever will pan pizza be as crackly crisp as a pizza that's been baked directly on the oven deck, nor should they be. It's a different style of pizza. But for me, the ideal pan pizza will have at least some bite to the crust, and a breadlike interior, without a noticeably oily surface on the underside.
The underside of this slice was cratered with big popped bubbles, and was nicely browned. I wouldn't call it crisp, but it had a pleasant al dente bite to it, without the excess of oil that's the bane of many a pan pizza.
Because of its relative thickness, I was able to better evaluate its interior. There was some nice, moderately chewy breadiness here, though texturally I would've liked a little more internal airiness. Certainly you don't want big bubbles popping up all over, but the dough here was a bit more compact and dense that it could've been, which for my taste is less interesting and pleasing than a slice that has a more airy interior with bubbles of varying size.
The cheese on this slice was a little browned, probably because the crust of this pizza necessitated a longer stay in the oven than the relatively thin pie. The thin slices of pepperoni were just slightly crisp.
This was decent pizza, perfectly acceptable for a quick bite while passing through Sodus, and worth a short detour off 104. If I lived in Sodus, I'd be good with this as my local, hometown pizzeria, though when ordering a pie, I might ask them if they could bake my pizza on the oven deck. All in all, it was average for this area, so I'll give it a C.
Skippy's Pizza, 14 W. Main St., Sodus, NY 14551