Way back in July 2009, I gave Union Hill Country Grill in Webster what was then only my third "Grade A" rating.Since then, UHCG closed, much to my dismay, but the site is now home to Mama Lor's Café, which includes the Gourmet Pizza Corner, which is open Wednesday through Saturday. I recently picked up a pizza.
I got a medium, with green peppers and onions. I wanted some toppings, but I wasn't in a meat-eating mood. And peppers and onions make a natural combination.
Sometimes when a new name goes up, the only thing new is the name. But this was definitely different from the pizza I'd gotten at Union Hill. The crust was thinner, and the underside was much lighter in color, from very pale to a light golden brown. The texture was noticeably different as well - not as chewy, and more biscuitlike, with some surface cracks visible underneath.
The pie was topped with an even layer of smooth, melted mozzarella, sprinkled with diced fresh green pepper and onions. Sandwiched between that and the crust was a thickish sauce, marked by some herbal notes.
Mama Lor's pizzas come in three sizes, and they offer 20 toppings and seven specialty pizzas. The café itself serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, with a full menu that leans toward traditional comfort food. The dining area is attractive and comfortable, and while this may not be the oldest pizzeria around, it may be the pizzeria in the oldest building - the structure, which originally housed a post office and then a general store, dates back to 1865.
To be frank, I was a little disappointed by this pizza, but only because the pizza I remembered from the Country Grill was so good. But in fairness, this wasn't bad. It was missing the toasty breadiness of its predecessor, but the overall flavor and balance were pretty good. All in all, it was about an average pizza, so I'll give it a C.
Mama Lor’s Café, 1891 Ridge Road, Webster
Sun. - Tue.: 6 a.m. - 2 p.m., Wed. & Thu. 6 a.m. - 8 p.m., Fri. 6 a.m. - 9 p.m., Sat. 6 a.m. - 8 p.m.
(Pizza Corner open Wed. - Sat. 11 a.m. - close)