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Tuesday, September 22, 2009

Martino's, Webster

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In my previous post, I reported on my visit to Martino’s on Long Pond Road. Today we go to Martino’s in Webster. From what I was told there, the two Martino’s were originally related - I assume just two locations of the same pizzeria - but there is no longer any connection between them.
The Webster Martino’s slogan, “Where Life Is Worth Eating,” is a play on the Town of Webster’s faintly silly “Where Life Is Worth Living” motto. And on Mondays and Tuesdays, the eating won’t cost you much at Martino’s, as you can pick up a slice of cheese pizza for just one dollar.
A deal like that is pretty hard to beat, provided, of course, that the pizza’s any good. Fortunately, it is. Although not advertised as such, Martino’s slices are a decent approximation of New York style pizza.
My cheese slice (I also got a Coke, almost out of guilt over buying only a single one-dollar slice) had a thin-to-medium crust. It was easily foldable, but not flabby, and the underside was very well charred - perilously close to burnt, in fact - with a prominent toasty flavor. From its appearance, I was expecting it to be crunchier than it was, but it had a nice, crisp exterior and a pleasantly bready interior. The thin lip had some crunch to it, with a hint of oil; perhaps it received a light brushing of olive oil before going in the oven, although I know from baking bread that brushing the loaf with oil (or melted butter) will result in a softer crust, so I don't know.
The sauce was of a thin consistency and lightly applied. It wasn’t missing in action, as at some places, but was certainly more of a supporting than a lead player here. The cheese was more melted than browned, but wasn’t overly stringy or gooey, and had an mouth-pleasingly creamy texture.
While not identical to the Long Pond Martino’s, the Webster Martino’s menu is similar in several respects, evidencing their former kinship. There’s a modest, but adequate range of toppings and specialty pizzas, as well as stuffed pizza (which has a top layer of dough), calzones and strombolis. They also offer wings, appetizers, grilled items, hot and cold subs, wraps, focaccia sandwiches, wraps, salads, fried fish and seafood, and several pasta dinners. If you have a sweet tooth, there are a few selections in that category too, including brownies, cannolis and peanut butter pie. Everything's available for takeout, dining in, and delivery (free for orders of $10 or more).
All in all, I was pretty impressed with this pizza. Nice balance between crispness and pliability, charred exterior and bready interior, topped off with that creamy mozzarella. And for a buck a slice? Fuhgeddaboudit! This one gets an A- from me.
Martino’s Pizzeria, 160 West Main St., Webster. 872-4140
Mon. - Thu. 11 a.m. - 10 p.m., Fri. & Sat. 11 a.m. - 11 p.m., Sun. noon - 10 p.m.
Pizza Guy note:  for an more recent review of Martino's, go here.


  1. I've enjoyed all your reviews, and agree with many or most of them (of the ones i have tried).

    Martino's, however, leaves me scratching my head. It may be that I went in the evening and had a reheated slice, but I tried both their cheese and pepperoni slices, and they were not crispy at all (very doughy). On top of that, the slice lacked flavor whatsoever. Maybe I should give them another shot, this time during lunch when the pizza slices are fresh.

  2. Well, inconsistency is never good in the food business. Unfortunately, it's one flaw I can't detect from a one-time visit. So I appreciate the input.
    When I went, I had the impression that the guy behind the counter might've been the owner, which can make a difference. Maybe he needs to check in on the night crew once in a while.
    As far as the flavor goes, this wasn't a particularly strong-flavored pizza. The flavors were more subtle. But some of that had to do with the crust. If the crust had been soft and doughy I might've found it just plain bland.

  3. I've had Martino's more than any place in Rochester. It is one of my favorite slices around. That being said, I have noticed that the pizza is not always as good when the owner isn't there. It also does not reheat well at all. I can't figure out why not, but definitely had noticed a drop off the next day. That being said, there is no better place in Webster to get a pie.

  4. Went to martino's last week for the first time in about a year. Agree with Rhino that the pizza is tasteless. Was the dinner rush so assume fresh slice. Then again, fresh or reheat wouldn't change a tasteless slice. Won't be going back even for 99 cent mondays

  5. All right, that settles it. I have to go back there and see if the slice I got was a fluke or if it's just a difference between my tastes and others'. It may just come down to me focusing on the texture of the crust and cheese really liking the crust and you (jordan and Rhino) focusing more on the flavor, or lack of same.