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Monday, September 13, 2010

Petrella's (large pie)

(This establishment has CLOSED since this review was posted.)
Last November, I did a post on Petrella's on Dewey Avenue. I wasn't particularly crazy about the square, pan-pizza slices I got there, but there were OK, rating a C+ from me. I also mentioned that I intended to go back sometime for a full pie, which I did not long ago.
When I opened the box, the pie looked pretty good. Then I took a look at the underside. It looked to be pretty soft, which was confirmed by the first bite. It was not greasy, thankfully, but it was very soft and spongy. Only along the quite thin edge was there any crispness, or even firmness, at all.
The pie was topped with a generous helping of sauce, which had a slightly tangy flavor, with some herbal notes. It wasn't sweet, as some sauces are. I don't know if this sauce is made on the premises, but I found it reminiscent of canned pizza sauce. I don't say that as a criticism, though; I've had some pretty good canned pizza sauces. Maybe I was just picking up the flavor of canned tomatoes that they use in making the sauce. Again, I don't know.
The cheese was also generously applied, and in good balace with the sauce. This seemed to be all mozzarella, and it was just slightly browned and very stringy.
The cup 'n' char pepperoni was nicely crisped along the edges ("regular" pepperoni is available as well).
I noticed when picking up this pizza that the to-go slices were cut from a round pie. That appears to be a change from my visit last fall, as my slices on that occasion seemed to have been cut from a sheet pizza.
But it was basically the same pizza. I was hoping that a full pie would have a crisper bottom, but this was frankly a little disappointing. I assume this dough rose and was baked in a pan rather than on the deck of the oven. The overall flavor was pretty good, but the crust was just way too soft and spongy for my taste. But if you don't mind a soft crust, you might like this one for its ample portions of sauce and cheese. I'll give it a C.
Petrella's, 4425 Dewey Ave. (Dewey-Latta Plaza)
Mon. - Thu. 11 a.m. - 9 p.m., Fri. & Sat. 11 a.m. - 10 p.m., Sun. noon - 8 p.m.

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