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Thursday, August 1, 2013

Ken's Pizza Corner, Brighton (Revisited)


I am continuing to ferret out the Rochester area's last remaining untried (by me) pizzerias, but as that list shrinks, it's a good time to revisit some places that I haven't been to in a while.
And one thing I try to do is get to places that readers have asked or urged me to revisit. One such is Ken's Pizza Corner in Brighton. I reported on it in December 2011, and I liked it well enough, giving it a B-minus, but some time ago a reader opined that Ken's deserved even better, so I went back.
I picked up two cheese slices. Apart from the thick, doughy cornicione, they were very thin, with a medium-brown underside that was crosshatched by screen marks.
The crust wasn't exactly crisp, but it wasn't bad. It was dry to the touch, and had some interior breadiness.
(Pizza screens are supposed to help the crust get crisp, but I wonder if they don't prevent crusts from developing natural "fault lines." You know, when you get a slice of pizza that's been baked directly on the oven deck, it often tends to crack along certain lines, at least on the surface. I don't know if I've ever seen a screen-baked pizza do that. Not often, certainly. For some people that might be a good thing, but I like some surface crackling.)
The aforementioned cornicione - the puffy part along the edge - was also pretty good. It wasn't a throwaway, like some, but pleasantly bready, chewy and tasty, with some nice big air holes inside. But it was quite thick and fairly wide for such an otherwise thin slice.
The slices were relatively saucy, though not overly so. The sauce was flavorful but "medium" in terms of the basic parameters of salty/sweet/tomatoey.
Some tanginess was supplied by the cheese. It was pretty uniformly added, with some pockets of sauce poking through, and had a bit of lactic bite. This could've been a blend of mozzarella and a slightly sharper cheese, maybe some Provolone, or maybe there was just some Romano in there.
These were some pretty good slices of pizza. Nothing that blew me away, but well made, with no significant flaws. Definitely worth a stop, and it rates a solid "B."
Ken's Pizza Corner, 1860 Monroe Ave., Brighton 14618
271-5860
11 a.m. - midnight daily

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