Last March, I reported on Cosimos Pizza in Marketplace Mall. I was quite surprised by how good it was, considering my preconceptions of food-court pizza, and gave my two slices a B+.
Recently, I returned to Cosimos for a full pie. They only come in one size here, large (16 inch, I believe), and I got just a plain cheese pie.
I was again impressed. The crust on this pie was thin, but not at all floppy, and there was enough of an interior to allow for some internal chewy breadiness. The underside was firm and crisp, with some crackling near the outer edge. It was more dark brown than charred, but still crisp enough to have a nice crunch when biting into it, followed by a satisfying chewiness. The narrow, thin lip along the edge was also pleasingly bready.
The crust was topped with a moderate layer of tomato sauce, which had a mild, even bland, flavor. The cheese was also added in proportion, not in a thick, uniform blanket, but with small ponds of sauce poking through here and there. The cheese was well melted, and was smooth-textured but not stringy.
I can't say I had any genuine complaints about this pizza. For it to attain my idea of pizza perfection, it would've needed some high-heat charring underneath, with the toasty flavor and aroma that goes with that. I also would've appreciated a little more flavor from this sauce. I don't think a heavily seasoned sauce would be called for here, and I will say that the mild flavors of the sauce and cheese had the virtue of not getting in the way of the subtle breadiness of the crust.
But those quibbles aside, this was a very good, well-integrated pizza in the New York style. If you like a thick crust, heavy toppings, or bold flavors, it might not be your thing, but as one of the better NY style pizzas I've had around here, Cosimo's rates an A- from me.
Cosimos Pizza, Marketplace Mall (near West entrance to mall) 424-6444
Mall hours: Sun. 11 a.m. - 6 p.m., Mon. - Sat. 10 a.m. - 9:30 p.m.