Wednesday, October 27, 2010
Perri's Lyell Ave. - New York Style Pie
I've previously reported on Perri's, both the one on Lyell Avenue and the one on Norton Street, and while I wasn't thrilled with the slices I got at either, I knew they were capable of better. So with that in mind, I recently returned to the Lyell location for one of their "New York, New York" pies.
This is an 18-inch pie that seems similar to me to the pizzas from which its individual to-go slices are cut, although I think those come from bigger pies. The underside was golden brown, screen-marked, and mostly dry, though there was some oily sheen, and quite a lot of grease had soaked into the bottom of the box.
The crust was quite thin, as expected, and the slices were easily foldable. The underside was not at all crisp, and there was not much of an interior crust to speak of, though there was no gumminess or other unpleasant characteristics. The edge was formed into a very thin lip and was rather crunchy.
As far as the toppings are concerned, the cheese, sauce and pepperoni were pretty well balanced. The cheese was tangy and a bit salty. Its texture was more chewy than creamy and I wondered if part-skim mozzarella was used. The sauce had a tomatoey flavor, with just a touch of herbs noticeable, and stayed mostly in the background. The cup and char pepperoni was not quite crisp, but pleasantly chewy.
One thing that struck me when I went to pick up this pizza was how many employees were working there at once. I counted twelve people behind the counter. That's neither a criticism nor a judgment of any sort, just an observation; I couldn't imagine why there were so many employees at work at the same time, or what they could all be doing. Oh well.
They do, though, turn out pretty decent pizza. Is this authentic New York style pizza? Eh, not exactly. I was recently in the Big Apple, and for all the pizzas I tried, I don't think one was at all greasy underneath. Nor did I see any screen marks. And they were all at least somewhat crisp underneath. This one fell short in all those respects. It had the makings of a very good pizza, but as it is, the crust stands in the way of greatness. It was good, but not quite great, and I'll give it a B.
Perri's Pizzeria, 2000 Lyell Avenue, Gates, 14606, 247-4040 Daily 10 a.m. - 10 p.m.
Other locations at: 528 Stone Road (at Dewey) in Greece, 14616, 865-5050 Sun. - Thu. 10 a.m. - 10 p.m., Fri. & Sat. 10 a.m. - 11 p.m.
1733 Norton Street, Rochester, 14609, 266-0030 Daily 10 a.m. - 10 p.m.