Friday, July 31, 2009
Costello's Grill & Pizza, Fairport
Costello's is a family-owned and operated place that has been in business since 1987. It's at the corner of Fairport and Baird Roads, just on the western edge of the village of Fairport.
There wasn't much to choose from on my lunchtime visit, slicewise. I got a cheese slice.
It was, frankly, a rather sorry looking little slice, but it was better - somewhat - than it looked. The fairly thin crust had a chewy texture. It was limp toward the tip, but got a bit more firm toward the edge. The edge, in fact, was the best part for me, as it had some crunch and a pleasant bready quality.
The sauce had a rather thick consistency, either from having been cooked before it was applied to the pizza or from evaporation during baking and afterwards. It had a somewhat herbal flavor.
The cheese was applied a bit thickly, and had congealed, pulling away from the edge. It did not adhere to the crust, and pulled off the slice completely when I took my first bite.
Costello's has a counter upfront, with some booths in an adjoining dining room, which is tastefully decorated for a pizza parlor. But then again, it's not just a pizza parlor. They offer various grilled items, including NY strip steak, pasta dinners, plus all the usual stuff like subs, wings, wraps, calzones and salads.
As for pizzas, the toppings list is rather modest, and there are a handful of specialty pizzas.
I had the feeling, eating my Costello's slice, that slices might not be the way to go here. This didn't seem to be the kind of place where they're bringing out a freshly baked and sliced pie every 10 minutes. I'm guessing that a fresh pizza from Costello's would be a decided improvement over the slice I had, but I can only rate what I got. There were some things to like about this pizza, but overall it was just OK. I'll give it a C.
Costello's Grill & Pizza, 1220 Fairport Road at Baird Road, Fairport. 586-5300
Sun. & Mon. 4 p.m. - 10 p.m., Tue. - Thu. 11 a.m. - 10 p.m., Fri. 11 a.m. - midnight, Sat. 4 p.m. - 11 p.m.