Thursday, July 2, 2009
Captain Tony's, North Winton Road
The grandiloquently named Captain Tony's Pizza & Pasta Emporium is a name that goes back some years in Rochester. If memory serves, there used to be a few Captain Tony's locations around town, but for a while now they've been down to one, at the intersection of Winton and Humboldt.
Oddly, Captain Tony's has other locations in - get this - Cleveland, California, Kansas, Arizona, and ... England. Two in England, in fact.
There's probably an interesting story behind that, but my concern is the pizza here in Rochester. I got a couple of cheese slices at lunchtime.
The crust was medium thick and very soft, almost wet-sponge soft, and it practically had to be folded, at least if you wanted to eat it with one hand. It was a bit greasy on the bottom. Only the edge had any textural bite, and that was more of a greasy crunch than a baked-bread crispness.
It was more than a bit greasy on top. I wasn't even trying to get the grease off, but it started dripping grease as soon as I folded it. I flipped a slice over onto the inside of the box and you can see how much grease came off in the small photo below.
Just about everything about this slice was heavy: heavy, greasy dough, lots of sauce (which had a bright, tomatoey flavor), and a thick layer of chewy, browned mozzarella. These weren't necessarily "huge" slices, as they came from what I'm estimating would be a 12" pie, but they were filling.
Captain Tony's has a fair number of toppings available, including several types of cheese, and several types of pizza too, including "New York Thin Crust," "Pan Pizza," "Deep Dish," and "Stuffed Pizza." I'm guessing my slices were from a pan pizza, which is advertised as the "original Captain's recipe direct from Italy" with a "thick, golden brown crust." They also have a few specialty pizzas, subs, wings, salads and sides, and, yes, pasta. It's pretty much takeout and delivery only, although there are a couple of outdoor tables in nice weather.
I wasn't too crazy about this pizza. The flavor was good - I liked the sauce - and it was certainly a filling lunch for under $4. But I found it too soft, too greasy, and too heavy, especially on the cheese. I can see how some people might like it, and next time I'm in Liverpool (the one in England, not the one near Syracuse) I might stop in for a slice, but I'm only giving it a C-.
CaptainTony's Pizza & Pasta Emporium, 385 N. Winton Rd. 482-8430
Update 7/29/09: since this was posted, I have gone back and tried Captain Tony's thin crust pizza. See that review here.