Monday, July 27, 2009
Russo's Clubhouse Pizza, Long Pond Road, Greece
Russo's Clubhouse Pizza is near the northern end of Long Pond Road, in Cedarfield Commons in Greece. Their lunchtime slice choices are limited to plain cheese or pepperoni. I had a pepperoni slice.
This was a medium-to-thick slice, and fairly heavy. The underside showed some pizza-screen marks but was also a wee bit charred, which is unusual for a screen-baked pizza. It had some creases, kind of like fault lines in appearance, from where the dough seemed to have been folded onto itself while rising. It wasn't at all greasy, had a nice bready flavor, and a thick, chewy edge.
The sauce had a straightforward tomatoey flavor, and was applied enough to be noticed, but still remain mostly in the background behind the crust and the cheese. The latter was a chewy layer of mozzarella, on the thick side, but in balance with the thickish crust, putting this into what I would call Rochester-style pizza.
The wide-and-thin pepperoni was OK, a little crsip and a little greasy.
Russo's has a pretty basic menu, with pizza, wings, burgers, hot dogs, meatball subs, BBQ roast beef sandwiches, steak sandwiches, and a handful of sides, plus ice cream and lemon ice. They don't offer any specialty pizzas (aside from white pizza), although you're free to create your own from their toppings list, but they do have a "diet pizza" with a thin crust, "light" cheese and vegetable toppings. It may be good, but I think I'll stick with my pizza diet over diet pizza.
There are some tables and chairs, and they advertise a "limited delivery area."
My experience with screen-baked pizzas up till now has been almost universally disappointing, but this was one of the better ones I've had, maybe even the best. That may sound like damning with faint praise, but it's not meant that way. Mind you, it did make me wonder how much better it could've been had it been baked in a "hearth" oven, which might've added to the complexity of the flavors and texture of the dough, but I'm not complaining about this pizza. I'll give it a B-.
Russo's Pizza, 496 Long Pond Road, Greece. 225-3570.
Sun. - Thu. 11 am - 10:30 pm, Fri. & Sat. 11 am - midnight